Chile, In List Form

Many of the travel articles I read online these days are formatted as lists. Hypothetical and real examples include: “Five Places to Drink Coffee in X City;” “Ten Things You Should Always Pack for X Country;” “25 Places You’ve Never Been To;” and Matador Network’s “How to ask for ‘one more beer, please’ in 50 languages.”

Well, I wonder if I could synthesize my experience of Chile thus far into a single list. Dear me, we know I’m a fan of the list to begin with. On my desk right now, I have my daily commitments listed in my planner, items “to add to the novel” scribbled on many sheets of an old VF notepad, as well three visible post-it reminders, a splayed open journal, and various email print-outs with outlined medical and legal research. While they may not all be satisfyingly check-marked (at least not yet), these lists are a vital part of the vast territory between any project’s beginning and end.
So, I respect the list. I understand its logic, though I wish a few more publishing outlets trusted that I still retain an attention span worthy of 1,500 paragraphed words and don’t necessarily require bullet points and bolded subtitles in order to follow along. Crankiness aside, I do glean a certain satisfaction from anticipating the three or five or 10 things I’m about to learn about any given thing. Perhaps you do, too. Herewith, I give you 30 things I’ve seen, heard, done, or pondered since I moved to Santiago. Consider it a little eight-month time capsule:
1. Very young children helping their mothers and grandmothers sell things (orange juice, calendars, shoes) outside the metro stations. Sometimes, I see the same children when I leave in the morning and arrive back in the evening.
2. Two entire aisles of the grocery store comprised of soda products (not to mention half an aisle dedicated to hot dogs alone).
3. A startling absence of hummus (and bagels and burritos and mac ‘n’ cheese and sometimes limes… ) 
4. Panoramic views of Santiago from two hills right in the middle of the city.
5. Many, many red lights run.
6. A classroom of students where our shared language allowed us to exchange greetings only. We smiled and survived.
7. A (harmless) tarantula.

8. The number 63 on a red screen at the visa office when the number I held in my hand read 197.
9. All of my worldly possessions pushed to one side of my bedroom in San Francisco and unpacked in my living room in Santiago.
10. Hisses, whistles, honks, and stares. The honks are what really get me. 
11. The Pacific Ocean of Punta de Lobos, both on our honeymoon and a bright birthday morning last week. And the waves farther north in Zapallar.

12. More avocados than I’ve ever seen in one place at one time.
13. A grove of almond trees and fresh cherimoya fruit (on separate occasions).
14. Crystal-clear snow-capped Andes one day and so much smog the next I can no longer use the mountains to know I’m heading east.
15. The faces of friends and family through online chat windows.
16. Many fountains and many statues. Santiago likes both. And street dogs drinking from the fountains.
17. A blood bank, which I now know is called un banco de sangre, at quite possibly the cleanest and most efficiently run hospital I’ve ever been to (don’t worry… just needed some standard blood work).
18. “Happily of Household” pregnant imitation barbies.

19. Kind strangers who have stopped to ask me if I need help when I must look very lost. 
20. One mall that sells clothing, furniture, food, cars, internet service, time shares, and movie tickets, among much else.
21. Pavement, glass, heat, misting metro fans, cigarette smoke, and snippets of Spanish everywhere I go this summer.
22. Fake Christmas trees on display in 90-degree weather.
23. Street dogs who have walked with me for blocks at a time.
24. Pablo Neruda’s “eyes.”
25. A tall set of stilts walking by the window of an Indian food restaurant at lunch time.
26. The Andes from 8,000 feet.
27. Countless beautiful murals that always give me pause.
28. NFL games moderated by sportscasters from Argentina.
29. A lot a lot a lot of acid-washed jeans.
30. Protest horns as well as chairs and desks crammed into the chain-link fences surrounding Santiago’s schools.
I already have a running mental list of the places I’ve yet to see and the things I’ve yet to do, not to mention the surprises you can’t anticipate, no matter how many lists you make or travel articles you read. Stay tuned for the next time capsule. 

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