This is Santiago. As I’ll be moving to Chile next year, I’m fascinated to learn that some believe surfing got its official start just north, in Peru, despite the sport’s long-held Polynesian origins. As Michael Scott Moore writes in Sweetness … Continue reading
Thanks to Club Ed It was all meant to be. After three rescheduled lessons in as many weeks, after storm-induced 10-12 foot swells earlier in the week, Ed was right: Things settled down. Not only that. The temperature reached well … Continue reading
Andy Irons died today. The three-time world champion was only 32, had a baby on the way, and it’s being reported that he passed away from Dengue Fever, although that’s not yet definitive and a toxicology report awaits. He was … Continue reading
The Rocks at Kelly’s Cove, Ocean Beach, SF In the words of Duke Kahanamoku, the famed great-grandfather of the sport who surfed his native Oahu and waves the world over (he is credited with launching the sport in Australia at … Continue reading
Cowell’s Beach, Santa Cruz, CA You never forget the first time. Mine was half my life ago at Cowell’s Beach in Santa Cruz, appropriately known as the first place on the North American continent to be surfed. In 1885, three … Continue reading