The Point at Punta de Lobos, Chile So, I may be a boogie boarder after all. Just as 2011 may be the year of taking on new adventures and new identities: I was fortunate enough to marry the most wonderful … Continue reading
OB, SF Surfers constitute some six million travelers, whether they paddle out at their local breaks or trek their boards across the globe in search of waves and, by extension, new cultures, geographies, and ways of being. Yet, once out … Continue reading
Credit: Duke University Press Only after weeding through nearly 100 years of surfing history, only after reading first-person accounts and speaking with experienced surfers, only after understanding my own experience in the water a bit better, do I feel prepared … Continue reading
Outrigger Canoe Club, Waikiki Beach, Oahu I promised to retrace all of my past attempts at surfing. The third one kept me out of the water for nearly a year. It also happened to be set in paradise, off Oahu’s … Continue reading
This is Santiago. As I’ll be moving to Chile next year, I’m fascinated to learn that some believe surfing got its official start just north, in Peru, despite the sport’s long-held Polynesian origins. As Michael Scott Moore writes in Sweetness … Continue reading