Credit: Duke University Press Only after weeding through nearly 100 years of surfing history, only after reading first-person accounts and speaking with experienced surfers, only after understanding my own experience in the water a bit better, do I feel prepared … Continue reading
Outrigger Canoe Club, Waikiki Beach, Oahu I promised to retrace all of my past attempts at surfing. The third one kept me out of the water for nearly a year. It also happened to be set in paradise, off Oahu’s … Continue reading
This is Santiago. As I’ll be moving to Chile next year, I’m fascinated to learn that some believe surfing got its official start just north, in Peru, despite the sport’s long-held Polynesian origins. As Michael Scott Moore writes in Sweetness … Continue reading
Thanks to Club Ed It was all meant to be. After three rescheduled lessons in as many weeks, after storm-induced 10-12 foot swells earlier in the week, Ed was right: Things settled down. Not only that. The temperature reached well … Continue reading
Andy Irons died today. The three-time world champion was only 32, had a baby on the way, and it’s being reported that he passed away from Dengue Fever, although that’s not yet definitive and a toxicology report awaits. He was … Continue reading