The Rocks at Kelly’s Cove, Ocean Beach, SF In the words of Duke Kahanamoku, the famed great-grandfather of the sport who surfed his native Oahu and waves the world over (he is credited with launching the sport in Australia at … Continue reading
Cowell’s Beach, Santa Cruz, CA You never forget the first time. Mine was half my life ago at Cowell’s Beach in Santa Cruz, appropriately known as the first place on the North American continent to be surfed. In 1885, three … Continue reading
Watching the Waves, Rodeo Beach, Fort Cronkite I have attempted to surf three times in my life—each experience is emotionally distinct and only one could be deemed at all “successful” (I’ll get around to sharing them all). In the meantime, … Continue reading
Sydney, 2008 Never have I ever kept a personal blog. While I’ve made my living as a magazine editor and contributor, write fiction in every spare hour I can find, and have a trunk full of journals, I’ve lacked the … Continue reading